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Inside Indonesia,
April-July 2008
How Indonesia’s
Democratic Transition
Transformed Aceh
Edward Aspinall
In the first two or three years after the collapse of
the Suharto regime in 1998, some people inside and
outside the country thought Indonesia was on the verge
of breaking up. Violent communal conflicts erupted in
several parts of the country, notably in Kalimantan,
Central Sulawesi and Maluku. Separatist movements
re-emerged with new vigour in the three outlying
provinces of Irian Jaya, Aceh and East Timor, and new
separatist sentiment was stirring elsewhere. One
common view was that this happened because the country
was not yet ready for democratisation. Indonesia was
said to be like a pressure cooker – take off the lid
of authoritarian control and the country would
explode.
Aceh seemed to present the clearest evidence for this
gloomy assessment of the relationship between
democracy, national unity and social peace. From early
1999, many Acehnese believed the momentum toward
independence was unstoppable. One of the largest mass
mobilisations in Indonesian history took place in
November 1999. Hundreds of thousands gathered outside
Banda Aceh’s Baiturrahman Mosque to demand an
independence referendum. Armed rebellion was also
better organised in Aceh than elsewhere. At its peak
the Free Aceh Movement (Gerakan Aceh Merdeka, or GAM)
controlled 70 percent of the countryside.
At the centre, the Aceh conflict seemed to turn
democrats back into authoritarians. So important was
Aceh to Indonesia’s national birth myth, and so
visceral were the fears of national break-up, that
successive post-Suharto presidents authorised stern
military action against GAM. The mood of the
parliament turned bellicose. The Unitary State of the
Republic of Indonesia, condensed in the acronym NKRI
(Negara Kesatuan Republik Indonesia), replaced the
‘Pancasila’ of the Suharto years as a catch-all phrase
to justify human rights abuses of the worst kind. The
depredations of the Suharto years repeated themselves
in Aceh. The province became a giant military camp.
Elsewhere the military had been forced into a
humiliating political retreat. But in Aceh, after a
time, officers spoke in public as if the old ‘dual
function’ doctrine – giving the military both a
security and a socio-political role – had never ended.
They boasted that the armed forces were the last
bastion of the Republic and the guardians of the
state. They sneered at the capacity of civilian
politicians to keep the country together. As most of
Indonesia democratised, Aceh militarised.
Immediately after the December 2004 tsunami, I drove
to Banda Aceh from Medan in a van with NGO activist
friends from Jakarta. Not far past the border of Aceh,
we passed a roadside military base. It was sunset, and
the soldiers were ceremoniously pulling down the
national flag for the night. They ordered all passing
traffic – including the trucks carrying emergency
relief – to stop in respect as they did so. ‘This
doesn’t happen anywhere else these days’, my friends
told me, shaking their heads and recalling the Suharto
years. Going to Aceh was like passing into a time
warp. I felt the Indonesian state was reproducing the
very tactics that had caused the Acehnese to turn en
masse against it in the first place. Even amidst the
wreckage of the tsunami in Banda Aceh, people would
approach me and whisper about their hatred of the
security forces. One fisherman, trying to salvage
machinery from his boat stranded in a suburban housing
estate, looked around at the wreckage and told me:
‘They will never kill all the Acehnese, even if they
try. For every GAM member they kill, ten take his
place.’
Aceh’s transformation.

Aceh’s
transformation. |